Ever tried sleeping sandwiched between cliffs that funnel wind straight from the mountain to the valley? Well, we did, and let me tell you, it was cold. I’m talking about the kind of cold that has you thinking, “Did I accidentally pack my fridge instead of my tent?” Despite our mats and what might be the world’s thinnest sleeping bags, we shivered through the night. Rookie mistake, maybe, but Rinjani was our first big mountain adventure, and our gear was, let’s just say, not exactly top-shelf.
Picture this: It’s 3 AM, and the inside of the tent is freezing, thanks to the super-strong valley winds. Our tent was pretty basic – kind of like a net on sticks – so, no shocker, the wind made itself at home. Without any cozy insulation, it felt just as chilly inside as out. Our stove was the only way to warm our hands and bodies to prevent hypothermia. Despite the cold, though, we were all in. Every moment was precious, and we still managed to sleep with clean air as if we were in a room with the freshest AC ever!
Come dawn, we woke up to enjoy a breathtaking sunrise from Rinjani’s peak, greeting us with clear, bright weather as if to welcome our arriva. A cup of Milo and coffee recharged our energies, followed by a delightful breakfast of fried noodles and omelet, a combo that could beat any luxurious hotel breakfast. After a quick clean-up at Camp 3, we were ready to hit the trail to Pos 4 – Bukit Penyesalan (yep, that’s “Regret Hill”), aiming for Plawangan, our last stop before the summit.
Starting off at 8 AM, the steep, rocky path was a real knee-tester. We took plenty of breathers, trying to chill our racing hearts down from “sprinting” to “strolling.” We often hid behind trees and bushes to catch our breath and lower our heart rate from 150 to 110 to relax our bloodstream.
The weather was crystal clear, with the wind tagging along for the hike. The journey was a blast – every step filled with “wow” moments. Underneath us, a sea of clouds, and above, Rinjani reaching up to the sky. Reaching Pos 4, we were greeted by fellow hikers chilling out. This spot had a cool vibe, with a stall serving up icy drinks, coffee, fried snacks, and spicy tofu. Perfect for a little rest and chat.
But the highlight was ordering cold drinks with Pos 4 Rinjani-style fried snacks. It was the best fried snack we had ever eaten, with the combination of our tired energy, the warm weather, the crispness of the snacks, and the cold drinks making it taste 100 times better than usual.
We didn’t linger too long, though; Plawangan and its promised beautiful sunset over Lake Segara Anak were calling our names. But first, we had a hill to conquer.
The Regret Hill
Bukit Penyesalan got its name for a reason. It’s steep, it’s tough, and it’ll test your stamina like nothing else. But it’s also incredibly beautiful, offering views you won’t find anywhere else. Yet, amidst its intensity, the hill offers breathtaking beauty not found on any other mountain.
Clouds sweeping across with the wind at 2300 meters above sea level, allowed us to visually witness them moving and dancing. This view was ours to enjoy during breaks, turning around to gaze below. Dense tree roots provided foot holds and support against the tough climb. But perhaps, the “regret” in Bukit Penyesalan is not a negative connotation of regretting climbing this hill, but rather, the regret of those who have never set foot here to witness God’s creation.
“But perhaps, the “regret” in Bukit Penyesalan is not a negative connotation of regretting climbing this hill, but rather, the regret of those who have never set foot here to witness the true beauty of rinjani mountains”
The climb was a challenge, especially for us newbies. It took a solid 180 minutes, but by 3:30 PM, we had made it to Pelawangan.
From Chilling Winds to Majestic Sunrises
Pelawangan greeted us with the majestic sight of Lake Segara Anak, just a few steps from the final incline of Bukit Penyesalan. The vast expanse of the lake at 2800 meters above sea level, Lake Segara Anak is a volcanic lake nestled in the western part of Mount Rinjani. You can find this lake at an altitude of about 2,008 meters above sea level, visible from the Pelawangan camping spot. Spanning roughly 1,100 hectares, Lake Segara Anak reaches depths of up to 230 meters. A monumental eruption of Mount Rinjani once carved out a massive crater, which later filled with water. Legend has it that Segara Anak is home to the gods, with a palace in its center belonging to Dewi Anjani, the ruler of Mount Rinjani.
We made our way to the camp area at Pelawangan 3, nestled between two towering trees. It’s a flat piece of land perfect for setting up 2-3 tents. Imagine this: to our left, the peak of Rinjani; to our right, the Lake Segara Anak and the mountainous landscape of Bukit Senaru; and behind us, the vast plains of East Lombok stretching towards the beaches of Eastern Indonesia.
This spot was arguably the most beautiful, where we pitched our tents, cooked our meals, and sat back to enjoy the sunset as it dipped between the hills on the Rinjani horizon. We sat in silence, grateful to witness one of the wonders on the island of Lombok. There was no time for stories; we were exhausted and could only attempt to etch this memory into our minds. We needed to rest because, at 3 a.m. the next day, we had to embark on our journey to the summit at 3,600 meters above sea level.
That evening, watching the sunset over Rinjani, was pure magic. No words, just us and this incredible view.
Stories had to wait; we were wiped. But as we hit the hay, we knew tomorrow’s 3 AM start for the summit was going to be worth it. We had to embark on our journey to the summit at 3,600 meters above sea level. Because, let’s face it, adventures like this are what life’s all about!
